Embassy Helsinki

Since starting my internship a few weeks ago, I’ve spent a lot of time doing things with an “r” theme: reading, research, reports, relationship building and navigating, reflecting, a little restraint, and racking my brain for ideas and answers. 

Cajun crayfish - photo courtesy of DipBlog

I recently added ‘riting to this list of internship themes as a contributor to Embassy Helsinki’s DipBlog.  The task was to explain traditional/typical American 4th of July festivities.  This felt quite strange since the Embassy was preparing to celebrate Independence Day with a large party one week in advance of the actual holiday in order to accommodate the Finnish midsummer holiday and vacation schedules.  Furthermore, hundreds of guests, including Finnish celebrities and many diplomats, were expected (and did) to attend the party – not my typical 4th of July crowd.  And, instead of hotdogs, hamburgers, and fireworks, there would be unlimited Ben and Jerry’s ice cream and thousands of crayfish (aka crawfish) prepared by a renowned Louisiana chef. 

In crafting this short DipBlog piece, I thought about the significance of hotdogs, hamburgers, and fireworks and what it would be like to have a 4th of July party that wasn’t on the 4th and the absence of these customary American Independence Day symbols.  An excerpt of the post is below. 

Celebrating the 4th of July is an all-day event where people get together with their family, friends and neighbors.  My fondest memories are of celebrations with my family and millions of other Americans in Washington, D.C. on the National Mall.  But, whether you’re celebrating in a small town in Middle America or in the nation’s capital, the day usually starts with a parade, complete with student marching bands, military troops, dancers, costumes and floats.  People are enthusiastically patriotic, often dressed from head to toe in red, white and blue and waving small American flags...

Renny Harlin & Deckard - photo courtesy of DipBlog

Admittedly, the resulting blog is a bit cheesy and nostalgic.  Yet, after reflecting on the party, I think the same sense of camaraderie that I’ve often felt while celebrating the 4th of July the “traditional” way was still in the air.  The party was fun, different and the guests (me included) seemed to really enjoy themselves. 

While the Embassy is doing important work, it’s not always as glamorous or exciting as an atypical 4th of July party.  And, there’s a lot of on-the-job learning that may not always fit with my specific interests.  However, there are sure to be more extraordinary moments along the way, which brings me to another theme to set the tone for the remaining two months of my internship in Finland: being game for anything and going along for the ride. 

Mr. Amerikka

Perhaps I should have anticipated this not-so-profound revelation after my unique introduction to the Ambassador via this cover story that appeared in the Kuukausiliite (the monthly supplement to Finland’s newspaper, Helsingin Sanomat) days before I started my internship.  

I definitely wasn’t expecting to see the Ambassador to Finland shirtless before meeting him in person (or ever).  But, I also didn’t expect to rip apart crayfish with my hands and suck juice out of their heads alongside Finnish dignitaries and diplomats from around the world. 

Suomenlinna

An early release from work on Thursday kicked off great holiday weekend!  The fun began with a trip to the beloved market with Johanna to buy fresh cherries, strawberries, and peas for a picnic at Suomenlinna, the fortress island just off the coast of Helsinki.  

After eating a traditional (and extremely greasy) Finnish meat pie in the market (which I'm not likely to eat again), we took a short ferry ride to the Suomenlinna.  The fortress island is actually a chain of six small islands with the purpose of defending Sweden from Russia back in the day when Finland was still part of Sweden. 

Lighthouse church

Then, we toured the islands, walking along the cobble stone paths, viewing the (formerly ornate Orthodox but now renovated and quite modest looking) lighthouse church, and running into numerous geese in search of the perfect picnic spot.  Once settled upon a big rock on the island's cliff side, we indulged in all of our market produce plus a gigantic cinnamon bun, rhubarb juice, and a nice bottle of vino.

Though the picnic was part of the day's plan all along, the temperature in Helsinki finally reached 70 degrees on Thursday, which was really cause to celebrate! So, we sat, ate, drank, and people & boat watched for a few hours while enjoying the warmth of the sun until heading back to the city on the ferry...   

'Tis the Season

I recognize that I have many privileges living in the United States, one being the ability to get practically all types of produce at any time of year.  Avocados and strawberries in the winter?  No problem.  But, this isn't the case in Finland.  

Since arriving in Finland, I've heard a lot about the wonderful seasonal Finnish fruits and vegetables that are only available during the summer months.  During the first two weeks, outdoor markets began advertising their Finnish produce.  As the days go by, more and more grocery stores and fruit stands are proudly selling homegrown cucumbers, tomatoes, and potatoes and the consumers are clearly in a frenzy for these fresh foods.  As I've started to buy and taste the Finnish fruits and vegetables, I have to admit: the hype is worth it (even if I still find humor in the uncontainable excitement for "new" potatoes)!

Tonight's dinner included a salad with lettuce freshly picked from the garden at my Kulosaari home, a gigantic Finnish cucumber - one of the largest I have seen and also adorned with a lovely Finnish flag on the plastic packaging, and perfectly ripe Finnish tomatoes.  The meal didn't include Finnish feta, brie or prosciutto, but the results were just as tasty it looks!

And now, I'm eagerly awaiting the ripening of Finnish blueberries and raspberries!

On another note, this post is dedicated to Johanna.  Though it may not feel like summer to me, 'tis the season and she does her best to indulge me in summer-like activities, including dinner on the patio (despite wearing many layers and keeping a scarf nearby, just in case).

Daddy-O

Happy Father's Day to my loving and supportive dad who can always entertain me!

Postcard from Helsinki

While searching for fun things to do in Helsinki, I read about a new outdoor art installation near the Senate Square.  This weekend, I stopped by to snap a photo.  The idea is that the installation can serve as a backdrop for a postcard which people (presumably tourists, including me!) can pose in front of and express their love for the city.  Though I didn't strike a pose, I did snap a couple of photos.   

The installation is directly across from the Helsinki Cathedral, one of the city's famous landmarks and a popular tourist spot (note the numerous tourist buses below).  I love walking through the Senate Square and I'm determined to sit on the cathedral stairs on a warm sunny day and enjoy an ice cream this summer!  Notice how the top half of the stairs look much nicer than the bottom - they're in the process of being cleaned, section by section! 

Helsinki Cathedral

Tourists galore!

Hej George!

Per your request: one photo of Johanna and me. 

Johanna's kitchen

Not yet summer?

Strawberries, blueberries, cherries, oh my!

There are many things that I'm growing to love about summer in Helsinki.  The days are long and you can feel the energy of people when you're out and about that are also relishing the seemingly never ending hours of daylight.  The public transportation is easy to use and makes the entire city accessible.  Fruit stands are scattered all throughout downtown, making it easy to catch a whiff of fresh Finnish strawberries.  Flowers are abundant and in all sorts of colors.  The trees and the grass are a vibrant green.  There's a sea breeze and numerous islands scattered along the coast.  

Gulf of Finland

The thing is, however, it doesn't always feel like summer.  Tourists definitely don't flock to Finland to work on their tans and I knew that this is what I signed up for when I prepared to spend three months in a Nordic country (even if those three months are June, July and August).  In the past two weeks since my arrival, I've worn more long-sleeved shirts than short-sleeved shirts, but packed more short-sleeves than long-sleeves.  I've worn fleece jackets and scarves almost daily.  And, my flip flops have yet to make contact with Finnish ground. 

Esplanade

The calendar says its June 16, which says summer to me.  But, the temperature has yet to exceed 65 degrees, which says spring or fall or winter in Texas.  And, if the current forecast for the rest of the month is accurate, the temperature will only reach 69 degrees during the last week of June, again not an indicator of summer.  To further complicate things, the American calendar tells me that the first day of summer is just right around the corner - June 21 - while the Finnish calendar indicates that Midsummer is on June 23.  So, its simultaneously summer and not summer.  

But, regardless of the temperature on the thermostat and the date on the calendar, there are those moments (even if brief) when the sun is shining intensely and you feel the warmth on your face, that it finally feels like summer in Suomi.

Food for Thought

On another trip to the grocery store, I was surprised to learn that eggs (munat) are not refrigerated in Finland.  Since this obviously doesn't cause any health or food poisoning problems, it made me wonder why US grocery stores refrigerate eggs.  Are eggs refrigerated in many other countries?  I can't even imagine the amount of electricity that the US would save if we also shelved eggs in the same manner as cereal.

The only place to get free drink refills in Finland

I'm not a regular soda drinker; however I'm very accustomed to free soda or iced tea refills when dining out in the States, whether it's at a nice restaurant or Chipotle.  In Finland, free refills are not the norm.  In fact, I'm venturing to say IKEA is the only place you can get free drink refills (as far as I know).   Fortunately, I love IKEA, and since the nearest store to Denver is in Utah, I was excited to make a trip to the do-it-yourself furniture and meatball superstore

Riding on the special IKEA bus

"Normal" serving of the famed köttbullar.  At 7.40€ (approx. $8.92), 
it's the cheapest meal I've eaten in Finland!

  

Rhubarb Fool

Translations can be funny.  Especially for the word "rabarberkräm."

A few nights ago, Johanna and I went to her parent's place to pick up some fresh fruits grown at her grandmother's house in another part of Finland, including rhubarb.  I'm a fan of rhubarb jam and of dessert in general, so I was intrigued when Johanna said that she'll make a quick dessert for us with the rhubarb -- a kind of soup.  I'm thinking: rhubarb soup?  And, I'm picturing a bowl of Campbell's tomato soup but made from rhubarb instead.  It doesn't sound so appetizing, but she insists that it will be good.  So, then I wonder if this dessert is more like a pie.  And, it's not.  Perhaps a pudding?  We're not sure, so we turn to the trusty dictionaries of the world wide web and we get this:

I'm immediately confused and start laughing.  Why fool?  I admit that I am no culinary expert or baking guru, but I haven't heard of any fool desserts before.  (And, now, after googling "dessert fool," I understand much more about the world of fools and it looks very tasty!)

So, Johanna continues to make the dessert.  First preparing the rhubarb, then cooking it with water, sugar and strawberries.  Then, preparing the delicious vanilla sauce.  And finally, serving the rhubarb fool!

Finlandia rabarber

"Whisping" (aka whisking) the vanilla sauce

Rabarberkräm!

Up

Last summer, I saw Up -- the movie -- in 3D.  Today, I saw 3 hot air balloons unexpectedly while taking a walk on the island of Mustikkamaa (aka Blueberry Land).  I'm not sure if this is a regular happening, but the balloons seemed to be launching from the island where I'm living.

One balloon

Two Balloons

Small Balloon

Big Balloon

Unfortunately, I couldn't take many great photos since my sidekick, Baron, accompanied me and he has little patience for picture taking.  He's a cutie, but even at only 15 pounds, is quite a handful.

On Acclimating

One of the nice things about a three month stay in Finland is that there's no rush to see all of the sights immediately (despite being told that I can see everything in just two or three days).  Yet, since I hope to be more than just a tourist in the capital city of Helsinki, there's a lot of adjustment that must take place.  For instance, simply waiting at the curb of the bus stop does not ensure that the bus will actually stop for you.  Misplacing important pieces of paper with prepaid cell phone credits will ensure that you look foolish when returning to the phone store to ask how you're supposed to add the talk time to your phone.  My American Express card insists that I don't leave home without it -- but in Finland, I'd be just fine without it, as it's not universally accepted.  Thankfully, the past few days of acclimation have been relatively smooth.  I was even able to successfully point a stranger in the right direction of a large department store.

Yet, the most difficult acclimation challenge that I've faced (in both Sweden and Finland) is at the grocery store.  All of the products are familiar, but different, and just entering the grocery store raises my blood pressure a bit.  Am I going to mistakenly buy yogurt instead of milk, or milk instead of yogurt?  I'm used to buying in ounces and pounds, and now I'm looking at liters, grams, and "kpl."  How can I be sure that I'm getting a good buy when I don't completely know how much of a product I'm buying or how far my devalued dollar will go?  My first trip to the grocery store was nearly a complete failure, mostly due to entering the store just fifteen minutes before closing (which will result in grocery store employees wrapping all of the produce up and conspicuously following you to ensure that you're making your way to the check out counter).  Fortunately, the second trip was much more positive, thanks to the help of a Finnish friend who gave cheese and chocolate recommendations (staple foods) and was able to reach high enough to grab black beans from the shelf.

Aside from grocery store visits, I've spent more time touring the city this weekend.  The sun was shining today and I enjoyed getting lost in the crowd of two busy markets in downtown Helsinki.

Orthodox church in the distance

One of many fresh fruit stands

Suomi and seagulls

Candies galore!

Tomorrow's agenda: Day 1 of my internship at the American Embassy!

Kulosaari

Today (or really yesterday -- still not used to dusk at midnight!), I moved into the house where I'll be staying this summer on the island of Kulosaari, aka Fire Island, which is just a short drive or bus ride from downtown Helsinki.  My housemates include a US Naval Commander and his dog, Baron, a miniature pinscher who seems to have energy for days!  The house is located on a street filled with lots of cute and unique homes, as well as the Embassies for Iran, Iraq and China.  The neighborhood seems quaint and quiet, although the decor of the house isn't the Scandinavian/IKEA style that I expected.  However, the house does have a sauna -- a great Scandinavian tradition that I'll have to experiment with!  I've included a few pictures of the house and neighborhood below -- notice how light it was outside when these were taken at 9:30pm!  

My summer residence on Fire Island

Beware of Baron, my roommate!

Backyard and garden - growing spinach, lettuce,
carrots, peas, blueberries and raspberries

Just a five minute walk between the islands
Kulosaari and Mustikkama

A Reminder to Recycle

Public art display - Kamppi Shopping Centre

A Finnish Beginning

Four years ago, I visited Finland for one day, via boat while studying in Uppsala, Sweden.  Though I vowed to my Swedish-speaking Finnish friend -- Johanna -- that I'd be back, I didn't think that it would take me four years, or that when I did finally come back, that I'd be staying for three months.

But, here I am, at the end of my first full day in Helsinki, commencing a three month adventure where I'll be an intern at the American Embassy and exploring everything that is Finland (aka Suomi). 

Esplanade

The journey from Denver was exhausting.  Three flights, three trips through security, and one passport stamp later, I arrived!  Last night wasn't so eventful, as I was so tired from the trip and could barely think.  But after a good night's sleep (and a long mid-morning nap - a rarity for me!), I headed out to explore/get lost in Helsinki.

Helsinki Cathedral

After walking in a few circles and misreading street signs in both Finnish and Swedish, I made my way to Kammpi, a shopping center where I successfully set up cell phone service, with a little help from Johanna, who met me after work.  Then, we walked a bit in the Esplanade and by a few of Helsinki's landmarks, including the Helsinki Cathedral.  I picked up a few maps from the Visitor's Center and then we sampled cheeses from Stockmann and bought ingredients for our first of many shared dinners, just like the good ol' Uppsala days!

Highlights from Day 1

• Kukka-bukett = flower shop, and there are two near the bus station in Kammpi.
• I counted three Ben and Jerry's shops -- will be on the hunt for Daim ice cream, though. 
• It's 11:15pm and just now getting a little dark outside.  If I was a bad sleeper before coming to Finland, I'm sure that my sleeping habits will only get worse.

Tomorrow, I'll visit the house on Kulosaari (aka Fire Island), an island just east of downtown Helsinki, where I'll be staying for the summer and meet my housemate.  Then, first weekend in Finland!  Hej hej!